Fes Medina Guide: How to Navigate the World's Largest Car-Free Urban Area
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Fes Medina Guide: How to Navigate the World's Largest Car-Free Urban Area

12 min read10 February 2024
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The Fes medina is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most fascinating places on earth. Here's how to make the most of your visit by car and on foot.

Fes Medina Guide: Getting Around Morocco Ancient Heart

Fes el-Bali is the world largest car-free urban area and one of the best-preserved medieval cities on Earth. Founded in the 9th century, the medina is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a labyrinth of roughly 9,000 streets, alleys, souks, and cul-de-sacs that can disorient even seasoned travellers. This guide will help you navigate it confidently.

Understanding the Layout

The medina is divided into two main quarters: Fes el-Bali (old Fes) and Fes el-Jdid (new Fes, which is still several hundred years old). The main entry points are Bab Boujloud — the Blue Gate — and Bab Rcif. Most major attractions are in Fes el-Bali. The central spine runs from Bab Boujloud past the Bou Inania Madrasa, through the main Talaa Kebira street, to the Qarawiyyin Mosque and University — the oldest continually operating university in the world.

The Famous Tanneries

The Chouara Tannery is one of Morocco most iconic sights. You view it from the terraces of leather shops that surround it — look for signs offering free entry to the terrace. The large circular vats are filled with natural dyes: poppy for red, henna for orange, indigo for blue, saffron for yellow, and mint for green. The smell is powerful — shops offer sprigs of fresh mint to hold under your nose. Visit in the morning when workers are most active.

Getting Lost — and Found

Getting lost in Fes is part of the experience. However, if you want guidance, hire an official guide from the tourist office near Bab Boujloud. Half-day and full-day tours are available for around 200–300 MAD. Avoid accepting help from strangers who approach you — they will invariably lead you to a shop where they earn commission.

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For orientation, download the maps.me app or Google Maps offline before entering the medina. Key landmarks to navigate by include the Qarawiyyin Mosque (you cannot enter as a non-Muslim), the Blue Gate, and the large open Rcif Square.

Parking and Getting to the Medina

Cars cannot enter the old medina. The best paid car parks are near Bab Boujloud and Bab Rcif. If you are driving from outside the city, park at Place de la Résistance and take a petit taxi to the medina gates. Parking inside Fes el-Jdid is easier and allows a short walk to Fes el-Bali.

Arriving by car gives you maximum flexibility for day trips — see below. Search available cars at OunizZ Cars and book your rental with free cancellation.

Day Trips from Fes by Car

  • Volubilis: 80 km — the best-preserved Roman ruins in Morocco, set against dramatic countryside
  • Meknes: 60 km — the imperial city with a magnificent medina and the monumental Bab Mansour gate
  • Ifrane: 65 km — a Swiss-style mountain town in the Middle Atlas, with cedar forests and Barbary macaques
  • Chefchaouen: 200 km — the Blue City, a full day trip or overnight stay (see our Chefchaouen guide)

What to Eat in the Medina

The medina is packed with small restaurants and street food stalls. Look for msemen (flaky flatbread with honey), bissara (fava bean soup), and mechoui (slow-roasted lamb sold by weight). The city is also famous for its pastilla — a flaky pigeon and almond pie dusted with icing sugar. For a full food guide, see our Casablanca guide which includes culinary tips applicable across Morocco.

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